The textile collection of the Salar Jung
Museum has both vastness and variety. One comes across Kashmir shawls, Patola
sarees, Banarasi sarees, jamdanis of Lucknow, Kanthas of Bengal, Phulkari of
Punjab, Chamba rumals. This exhibit highlights some Kashmiri shawls and
Banarasi odhnis and sarees from the collection.
Shawls
Salar Jung Museum has a rich collection
of Kashmir shawls from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. A ruler of
Kashmir, Zain-ul-abidin from the 15th century patronised shawl-weaving. He was
a lover of the arts and introduced Turkistan weavers for shawl making. The word
shawl is derived from Persian “shal” originally representing a class of woven
fabric. Emperor Akbar was also fascinated with the Kashmir shawl. It finds
mention in the Rajatarangini and the Ain-i-akbari. In this 18th century
miniature painting, Sultan Abdullah Qutub Shah of Golconda is seen seated
and wearing a blue shawl.
Kashmir Shawls: Inspired by
Nature
In India, the shawl is worn as a
shoulder-mantle and was originally a male garment, the finest having been worn
by nobility. There is evidence that Sultan Abdullah Qutb Shah of Golconda (seen
in the previous slide) used to wear Kashmir shawls. The shawls have rich
decorative design which were either embroidered or woven on them. The turanj, a
decorated mango shaped design is a favourite on the shawls.
The
shawls are usually made from wool but can also be a fabric of mixed yarn. The
variety of design is definitely inspired from nature, not surprising from the
land of picturesque valleys and mountains.
Woollen shawl
18th century
This
is a rich woollen shawl from with turanj (mango-shaped motif) and floral
designs all over. Flower creeper border around with lettering in silk threads.
Himroo shawl
18th century
An
exquisite white woollen shawl, most probably from Kashmir having turanj shape
panels, floral designs all over in yellow and red, with cream colour plain
space at each end.
Square woollen shawl
18th century
This
is an interesting and elegant red, black, green and grey square woollen shawl
from the eighteenth century with circular panel in the centre with vase design
around it. Elongated leafy and turanj designs at the corners. Overlapping
turanj designs around, the designs having been produced in silk and zari.
Rectangular shawl
18th century
Ornately
designed rectangular shawl from the 18th century with floral patterns in
circular panel in the centre with similar designs in the quarter circle at the
corners. Flower plant designs all over against red background.
Himroo shawl
18th century
A
richly designed cream colour shawl from the eighteenth century in pieces
stitched together wioth flower patterns all over and circular crenellated panel
in the centre having floral designs. Similar quarter circles can be seen at the
corners. Floral creeper borders around the shawl.
Himroo shawl
16th century
A rich
woollen shawl with flower pattern in slanting rows all over. Circuar panel with
designs in the centre and similar quarter-circle at the corners. Flower creeper
borders on two sides.
Woollen shawl
18th century
A red
woollen shawl having floral designs in turanj shape panels all over in pieces
stitched together.
Patka (waistband)
17th century
Floral
shawl in silk having mango shaped designs, patka (gold print) with deep pinkish
red background
Saree
The saree is an attire mostly of South
Asian women, made up of a drape of five to nine yards in length and two to four
feet in breadth, worn with an upper garment called choli or ravike, a blouse.
Its history dates back to Indus Valley civilization. Ancient literature
mentions women in exquisite drapes or saree. The variety in saree is
endless including silk, cotton, ikat, block-print, tie and dye etc. in the
styles of Banarasi, Kanchipuram, Paithani, Mysore, Uppada, Bhagalpuri,
Chanderi, Narayanpet, Maheshwari, Patola, Pochampally, Sambalpuri, Gadwal,
Jamdani, Mangalgiri, Tussar, Bandhani, Ajrakh and many more. The museum houses
some Banarasi textiles like the saree and odhni.
Lady lighting lamp
1901 - 1999
A lady
wearing a saree with the 'pallu' over her head, holding a burning lamp in her
left hand. The lamp is ornate with a long chain attached. A golden border on
the upper and lower ends with painted flower plants.
Saree
19th century
Black
saree with zari lines making squares all over. Zari linear border in red on
sides. Zari on red pallu with geometrical patterns and tassels at the end.
Saree
19th century
Red
saree with zari lines making square patterns all over. Zari linear border on
sides with four lines across. Zari pallu with geometrical pattern and tassels
at the end.
Banaras silk industry
Banaras is a centre famed for its textile
industry. Though it covers cotton,silk and mixed fibres, it is better known for
its Zari-based silk textiles. Silk has been used since ancient times, the word
used for it was ‘kausheya’. Silk was worn during religious rituals and given as
gifts.
Silk fibres are obtained from silk-worms,
reared on green leaves and during their breeding process cocoons are formed
from which fibre is obtained.
References
have been made to silk in Vedic texts, Harshacharita, Arthashastra etc. Kashi,
Banaras or Varanasi was considered the source of best silk cloth and the main
centre of production. The industry continued and achieved its peak during
Mughal times and continues to the present day.
Banarasi textile
Early 19th century
Red
Banarasi piece having zari mango designs with green silk dots all over.
Saree
19th century
This
is a Banarasi doopatta having zari flower pattern in fish scale panels all
over. The Zari border has zig-zag design and another one with silvery diamond
shape designs in lozenge shape golden panels around against green background
square patterns at the ends and turanj at the corners.
Banarasi saree
19th century
Banarasi
saree having zari flower pattern in fish scale panels all over. One zari border
and another one with silvery diamond shape designs in lozenge shape golden
panels around, against green background. Turanj design at the corners and
zg-zag designs at both ends.
Banarasi saree
19th century
Another
Banarasi saree having zari flower creeper and three rows of flower patterns
arranged alternately in slanting position and turanj at corners. Green border
with flower creeper and another zari linear border around. Zari lozenge panels
and zig-zag designs at both the ends
Banarasi saree
19th century
Dark
green Banarasi saree having zari flower creeper and flower pattern in alternate
slanting rows all over with turanj at corners. Border with similar designs on
red background, another border with zari linear designs. Zari lozenge pattern
and zig-zag designs at both the ends.
Banarasi saree
19th century
A
Banarasi saree having silver flower pattern in zari lozenge panels all over.
Borders with zari diamond and floral pattern against green background and zari
linear designs around. Turanj designs at the corners. Zari lozenges and zig-zag
designs at both the ends.
